Contouring: how to do it based on the shape of the face

Contouring is the famous technique developed by the most expert make-up artists to define the volumes of the face by playing with chiaroscuro .

WHAT IS CONTOURING FOR?

Contouring is used to  reshape the face with make-up , highlighting the strengths with light and bright colors and concealing small defects with artfully created shadows.

Are you fascinated by this technique but you don't know where to start? Thanks to Make Up For Ever we can find out how to make a perfect contouring based on the shape of the face. In particular, we will discover in detail with a step by step guide how to sculpt the face in the shape of an inverse triangle, the long face, the oval, round, square and triangular face.

EVERY FACE HAS ITS IDEAL CONTOURING

You may have seen face charts showing how to contour (very famous is the photo of Kim Kardashian's contouring that runs everywhere on the web) or youtuber's video tutorials that explain how to do it on your face. It is wrong to take these photos or videos as an example and then replicate the same contouring on your face , because it is not certain that our face shape is identical to those of models or tutorialists. Each face is different , therefore it is impossible to identify  a single universal contouring capable of enhancing each person's facial features!

Each of us has a face shape that requires to illuminate or shade different areas to make the face harmonious and enhance it. For this reason Mufe indicates six different types of face shapes to be inspired by in order to create personalized contouring.

WHICH PRODUCTS DO YOU NEED TO DO THE CONTOURING?

The secret of a good contouring is first of all the choice of specific products, the indispensable ones are:

a dull earth of cold color;

a highlighter , preferably satin, perfectly in tone with your skin color.

Alternatively, instead of using just one satin highlighter, you can use two products: an opaque highlighter and a  shimmer highlighter , for an even more professional result. The makeup is then completed with a blush .

The French professional cosmetics house suggests using Pro Sculpting Palette Make Up For Ever, the new small and compact contouring palettes that contain a matte bronzer, a matte highlighter, a shimmer and a blush, ideal for creating a complete make-up look.

Do we have the right products available? Very well, it's time to spread the products on your face!

CONTOURING FOR REVERSE TRIANGULAR FACE

The reverse triangular face is characterized by a wider forehead than the chin, which appears pointed. Contouring for this shape proposes to restore the balance between the two halves of the face, optically reducing the upper part and accentuating the lower part.

For the contouring of the reverse triangular face it is necessary to apply the opaque illuminating nuance in the jaw area, on the bridge of the nose, on the cheekbone, in the center of the chin and also on the mobile eyelid, as well as on the browbone and over the browbone.

It is then necessary to define the shadow areas to make the reverse triangular face more harmonious. For this, the matte bronzer is applied to the hairline, in the area of ​​the temples of the cheekbones, but also on the final part of the chin and on the neck, in the hollow.

To complete the look, you need to apply a luminous highlighter on the cheekbone and under the brow bone, tapping it over the matte shade applied previously. Then follows the bush , which is applied from the center of the cheeks, blending it towards the ear.

In the end the face appears rebalanced, the lower more angular part is more harmonious, in line with the forehead.

CONTOURING FOR A LONG FACE

What is the goal of contouring for the elongated face? For a harmonious effect it is necessary to act on the extremities of the face, optically 'shortening' it and 'widening' it in the central part.

 

 

 

Illuminating the temple area, the top of the cheekbones, the bridge of the nose, the jaw area and the cupid's bow is the first step in creating the elongated face contour.

Subsequently it is necessary to play with the shadows, for this reason it is important to blend the matte earth at the hairline, horizontally, as well as on the cheekbones, taking care not to create a vertical gradient that would make the face even more elongated. Then follows the nose, chin and neck.

The application of the shimmer highlighter is then recommended for the eyebrow arch, the upper part of the cheekbone and the cupid's bow. The blush is then applied with circular movements to the center of the cheekbone, blending it slightly outwards: this will give the elongated face a more harmonious look.

The elongated face looks like this with specific contouring: the length is rebalanced with a play of chiaroscuro and the central part is highlighted, making it optically wider.

CONTOURING OVAL FACE

The oval face is the one considered 'perfect'. The task of contouring is in fact to draw a perfect oval. Even on this particularly balanced type of face, however, we can intervene with plays of light and shadows using the 'classic techniques' that refer to a 'universal contouring' (although as previously explained it is important to remember that each face is different from the others!) .

 

 

 

 

On the oval face, the eyebrow arch, the upper part of the cheekbone, in an 'oblique' manner , the center of the chin and the bridge of the nose are illuminated with the opaque powder . Then the temples, the sides of the nose and the hollow of the cheekbone are darkened, as well as the jaw and the lower part of the chin.

As for the other variants, they are highlighted with a bright illuminating browbone, cheekbone and cupid's arch, while the blush is applied in an 'oblique' way following the bronzer applied previously, taking care to blend it towards the temples.

So we finished the classic oval face contouring, which particularly highlights the cheekbones .

CONTOURING FOR A ROUND FACE

As you have surely understood, cotouring is an incredible technique that is perfect for giving 'harmony'. Therefore, for angular faces we act by creating 'roundness', while on round ones we work to refine the features. Specifically, contouring for round faces reduces the volume of the cheeks as well as the contours of the face, to create an optical elongation of the same.

The first step is the matte or satin highlighter . For the round face it blends into the browbone and over the eyebrow, the cheekbone, the bridge of the nose to the center of the forehead and the cupid's bow.

The bronzer instead follows the contours of the face, therefore it is faded from the temples to the cheekbone in an oblique way, to create an elongated effect. The dark and opaque product is also applied in the jaw area and in the hollow of the neck, these steps contrast the round shape of the face, giving it three-dimensionality .

 

 

 

 

The final touch is of course the illuminating powder with a shimmer effect in the strategic points: eyebrow arch, upper part of the cheekbones and cupid's arch. The blush is applied in a slightly oblique way from the center of the cheeks outwards, in a harmonious nuance.

The round face after contouring is more defined and harmonious.

CONTOURING FOR SQUARE FACE

The goal of square face contouring is to redefine and elongate the face while also reducing prominent cheekbones and prominent jaw .

To make the square face harmonious and with softer features, it is recommended to apply the usual opaque illuminator on the bridge of the nose, eyebrow aracata, above the eyebrows, in the hollow under the cheekbone and on the tip of the chin. The bronzer , on the other hand, is applied in the prominent areas, such as the zygomatic bone, jaw, hollow of the chin, above the temples and on the sides of the nose.

 

 

 

 

For a complete and delicate effect, the iridescent highlighter is then applied under the eyebrow arch and on the upper part of the cheekbone.

 

 

 

 

The square face thanks to the contouring appears more harmonious and with 'softened' features.

TRIANGULAR FACE CONTOURING

Contouring suitable for triangular faces is designed to reduce the width of the jaw and highlight the cheekbones and forehead. The triangular face contouring therefore aims to illuminate the upper part of the face and darken the lower one.

The triangular face receives the highlighter in the temple area, blended up to the cheekbone, as well as above and below the eyebrows, but also on the bridge of the nose and on the cupid's arch, to make the area optically 'wider'.

The bronzer is then applied to the cheekbones, jaw, sides of the nose starting almost from the eyebrows and into the hollow of the neck. This play of light and shadows therefore highlights the upper part of the face, optically enlarging it, while the lower part is reduced with dark colors.

As usual, the shimmer highlighter  is applied to the cheekbones and above and below the eyebrows. The blush blends well with bronzer and illuminating towards the temples, to give three-dimensionality to the face.

The triangular face thanks to the specific contouring appears much more harmonious .

We hope this guide on the contouring technique  has been helpful.

What is the shape of your face? Try contouring according to your shape and let us know what you think by leaving us a comment!